Jyaa Punhi, exotic festival in Panauti

Nepal is a country with a diverse culture, festivals and lifestyles. The Jatras are an integral part of Nepali culture which signifies rich rituals and ceremonies. They bring together people and provide a platform for celebration, entertainment, socialization and all. Moreover, the vibrant colors, music, and dances of the Jatras make them unique experiences. 

Jyaa Punhi is one of the festivals observed with vibrant cultural and social activities in Panauti, an old Newar settlement located 30 km from Kathmandu and south to Banepa. Jyaa Punhi holds a distinct significance to the people of Panauti. While the festival is popularly known as “Panauti Jatra” as well. The Panauti Jatra recites the story of goddess Parvati and lord Shiva in their fearsome avatars, Bhadrakali and Bhairava. The festival is observed each year on full moon day in June. The day falls on 11th June in the year 2025.

Although the actual activities of the festival lasts for three days, the locals prepare and welcome the Jatra eight days earlier. The preparation begins from the day of Sithi Nakha, the sixth day in the bright fortnight. The Newars celebrate Sithi Nakha, to worship their family’s ancestral deity. Starting from Sithi Nakha, the locals in Panauti gather every morning and go around the town in groups singing and chanting the names of the gods.

This cultural event commences five days prior to the full moon day of Jestha and ends on the third day after the full moon day, comprising a total of nine days.

Out of the three Jatra days, on the first day of Panauti Jatra, devotees take out goddess Bhadrakali from her temple and send her to the temple of Brahmayani, which is said to be her paternal home. On the second day, people worship all the gods and goddesses around the town and host feasts in their homes. The third day is the grand one; on this day, the chariots of the three gods, Mahadeva (lord Shiva), Bhairab (manifestation of lord Shiva), and Bhadrakali, are collided. The chariots of Mahadeva and Bhairab are dashed against the chariot of Bhadrakali. The chariots collide to represent the mating of the gods and have an amusing lore behind them.

The main event takes place on the full moon day.

Initially on this day the Brahmayani is charioted, routed round the town and taken to the courtyard of Layaku Durbar. Then idols of Bhadrakali as well as of Bhairava and Mahadeva are placed in the respective chariots made for each god and goddess accompanied by traditional music. Between various musical echoes, Dware (the royal representative) is thrown into the chariot of Bhadrakali. At first, the chariot of Mahadeva is lifted by Prajapati (people belong to a the Newar community specialized in pottery), as the chariot of Mahadeva is of type that it needs to be lifted. The chariot of Bhadrakali and Unmatta Bhairava is pulled around the town by the residents of Panauti to the courtyard of Layaku Durbar. In the beginning, the chariot of Bhairava and Bhadrakali and later the chariot of Mahadeva and Bhadrakali are collided three times each.

During the Jatra people visit temples around town and perform religious ceremonies in their homes as well. Later they gather at the ground of Layaku, the place dedicated for the local administrator in the historical days, to celebrate the Jatra. Young men lift the chariots of the god and take it around the town and collide the chariots as a ceremony. They throw Sindur (vermilion powder) on each other enhancing the festival mood. Therefore, this part of the festival is also known as “Sindur Jatra”.

It is believed that during the Jatra, a thunderstorm accompanied by rain takes place, symbolizing the homecoming of “Basuki Naag”. Remarkably, even if the day is initially sunny and clear, it miraculously rains with a display of thunder and strong winds.

On Jyaa Punhi, exclusive events organized in the Patan Durbar Square which bears history of nearly 400 years.

A Golden Throne of the Malla King Sri Niwas Malla is displayed at Krishna Mandir, Patan Durbar Square on the occasion of Jyaa Punhi. The magnificent throne was offered by local artisans of Lalitpur to the King in 1666. Then Sri Niwas Malla (1661 to 1685) was the King of the Lalitpur. The Golden Throne offered to the is displayed once a year on Jyaa Punhi, the full moon day in June. The day falls on 11th June in 2025.

The throne is made over the structure of Garuda, a mythical bird. The two lions standing over the pair of elephants symbolizing wealth, flank the seat on either side. Eleven coiled serpents form the backrest of the throne with their hoods lined up as halos rise above the King’s head when he sits upon it. The serpents are believed to protect the ruler from evil powers.

The throne designed to be easily carried by separating the parts, had its pieces scattered and stored at various locations. Later, all the pieces were collected and the assembled throne is now displayed at the Patan Durbar Museum of Lalitpur.

According to the inscription on it, the royal seat is dedicated to all the public not only the royal family. Other than displayed at Krishna Mandir on Jyaa Punhi, the throne is kept in the Patan Museum. On the same day, Raaga based lyrics composed by King Siddhi Narasingh Malla (ruling period 1618 -1661) are performed by local artisans. Moreover, an ancient Paubha, religious painting also displayed on the occasion. (By Ram Dangol)